Skin Peels 101: understanding peel types

A chemical peel is a method in which a chemical solution (usually an acid) is applied to the skin and removed after a certain amount of time. The solution penetrates the uppermost layers of the skin allowing the peel to achieve a certain depth. The result is for the skin to peel, lifting off sun damage, fine lines, and even reducing acne. The skin cells that peel off are naturally replaced with new ones.

HOW THEY WORK:

The peel is painted onto the face in our office. The stronger the formulation and the longer it's left on, the more powerful the "peel." In most cases, you’ll go home with the peel still on and rinse the solution off at home. This allows for maximum penetration without being trapped in the office all day.
The peel is then washed off. You may notice instant results, but you’ll also be given a follow-up care kit to ensure you have the proper products to treat and soothe skin as it heals.

KEY INGREDIENTS

Standard ingredients in a chemical peel are alpha hydroxy acids (think: lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and citric acid) along with the beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid. Alpha-hydroxy acids are a group of compounds, mostly from plant-based sources. Examples include glycolic (derived from sugarcane) and lactic (derived from sour milk). While they all act on the surface of the skin as chemical exfoliants, they differ in their molecular size, which determines how deep they are able to penetrate the skin.

Read more about the ingredients below.

What Are the Benefits of Chemical Peels?

Most everyone can agree that chemical peels are brimming with skin-loving benefits.

• Prevents acne: Chemical peels help with acne because they lower the pH of the skin, making bacteria uncomfortable and unable to survive. Peels are suitable for most types of acne. They help remove the surface skin debris leading to a healthier complexion with less clogged pores.

• Improves efficacy of other skincare products: Because peels remove the top layer of skin, it's able to help other products you put on your skin penetrate deeper.

• Refines fine lines and wrinkles: Removing dead skin that has settled into fine lines can make them less visible. A medium-depth peel is ideal for the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Reveals clearer, glowing skin: Chemical peels remove the flaky, irregularly-attached dead skin cells from the face, leading to a compact stratum corneum that reflects a beautiful glow. In addition, there is a slight inflammatory component that occurs resulting in a collagen boost.

Types OF CHEMICAL PEELS

There are three basic types of peels, all which are formulated with acid - light, medium, and deep peels. The peel type is based on the depth it reaches into the skin.

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Light Depth, Superficial Peels

Glycolic Peels

light depth, superficial

If you are looking to replace the age-related dullness on your skin with brightness, a glycolic peel may be your best bet.

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that helps to gently exfoliate the outer layer of the skin. It is one of the mildest peels, and is great for acne, hyperpigmentation, and sun damage on the skin.

This type of peel is made from fruit acids (but can also be man-made) and they penetrate just the top layer of skin, sloughing off dead skin cells.

Salicylic Peels

light depth, superficial

Salicylic acid is a BHA that's effective at targeting the oil glands. This type of peel is great for someone with congested, blemish-prone skin. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it penetrates deep into your pores to clear congestion.

It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can offer relief to inflamed skin.

Medium to Deep Peels

TCA Peels

medium depth

TCA peels (trichloroacetic acid) are medium-depth and penetrate deeper than the first two. We recommend medium-depth peels for those with scarring or pigmentation issues.

This type of peel is medical-grade and can only be done by licensed professionals. TCA peels can help with age spots, fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, and moderate skin discolorations and can provide modest tightening for sun-damaged skin.

TCA facial peels penetrate all five layers of the epidermis down to the papillary layer (upper layer of the dermis) to improve the appearance of skin. TCA peels range in concentration from 15%-35%, with the higher concentrations potentially mimicking the results of deep peels.

They can produce great results, but downtime is required as your skin will peel for at least a week.

Phenol Peels

deep

Phenol is also known as carbolic acid. It's the most powerful chemical peel ingredient that induces aggressive skin peeling for serious skin issues, such as severe acne scars and precancerous growths.

Phenol peels are the deepest-penetrating peels - all the way to the deepest layer of the dermis, and potentially even to the subcutaneous. Because of this, phenol facial peels are able to reverse deep-set signs of aging, such as moderate lines and wrinkles, age spots, freckles, and shallow scars to leave the patient with brighter, tighter, and smoother skin.

This is another professional-level peel that can provide dramatic results. But do be prepared for some downtime.
*not recommended for those with darker complexions

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